A Q&A with Dr. Scott Allison founder of Ascension Cosmetic Medicine
When it comes to healthy, radiant skin, hydration is key—but what does that really mean for your skin, and which products actually deliver results? We sat down with Dr. Scott Allison, one of Australia’s leading skin doctors and founder of Ascension Cosmetic Medicine, to discuss why hydration is essential for skin health, and the newest breakthrough treatments to add to your routine.
What are the key components in supporting skin quality and healthy-looking skin?
There are many elements when it comes to skin quality, which can be determined by the condition and several key components, including:
- Hydration: The skin’s natural moisture barrier is maintained by hydration, which keeps the skin supple, plump, and radiant. Hydration is the foundation of healthy-looking skin, and can affect the way skin looks, feels and moves.
- Elasticity: The skin’s ability to stretch and recoil, which gives it a firm, youthful appearance. Collagen and elastin, two proteins in the skin’s dermis, are essential for maintaining elasticity.
- Texture: The skin’s surface condition, which includes factors like pore size, smoothness, and roughness. Smooth skin is often associated with youthfulness and vitality.
- Skin tone: The uniformity of colour across the skin’s surface. Uneven skin tone can be caused by hyperpigmentation, redness, or dark spots and it’s these visual attributes that affect how skin looks.
As we age, our skin’s ability to retain moisture declines due to reduced levels of hyaluronic acid and aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Can you explain the role that these elements play in supporting skin quality and combating signs of ageing?
Hyaluronic acid and aquaporin-3 (AQP3) are essential for maintaining skin hydration and combating aging:
- Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is a natural molecule that attracts and holds water, retaining moisture in the skin, improving plumpness, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is a key player in skin hydration. AQP3 is a water channel protein that facilitates water flow and glycerol transport within skin cells. It ensures optimal hydration and elasticity, supporting a smooth, youthful appearance.
When injected into the dermis, these microdroplets attract and bind water molecules, creating a reservoir of hydration that plumps the skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Beyond immediate hydration, the presence of HA in the dermal layers stimulates collagen production. Increased collagen levels improve skin elasticity and firmness, addressing sagging and deeper wrinkles over time.
SCIENCE OF HYDRATION
Hyaluronic acid is a popular ingredient in many skincare products. What makes it so effective for hydration, and how does it work within the skin?
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is a naturally occurring molecule in the skin that plays a critical role in maintaining hydration. Its remarkable ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water makes it one of the most effective ingredients for skin hydration. By attracting and binding water molecules, HA creates a reservoir of moisture within the skin, helping to maintain plumpness, elasticity, and a smooth, supple texture.
When applied topically or injected intradermally, HA replenishes moisture levels, restores a dewy complexion, and supports overall skin health. Its lightweight molecular structure allows it to penetrate effectively, making it a versatile solution for deeper hydration and visible skin rejuvenation.
Can you explain what aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is and how it supports hydration at a deeper level? Why is AQP3 set to become a staple in terms of skincare and why is it especially relevant to Australian skin?
Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is a protein embedded in cell membranes, primarily within the epidermis—the skin’s outer layer. It functions as a channel facilitating the transport of water and glycerol into and out of skin cells, playing a crucial role in maintaining skin hydration and elasticity.
Australia’s harsh climate can expose individual’s skin to harsh environmental conditions such as intense sun exposure and humidity. These factors can compromise the skin’s barrier function, leading to increased trans epidermal water loss and dehydration.
Can you explain the difference between surface hydration and deep skin hydration?
Surface hydration refers to moisture replenishment in the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum. This layer acts as the skin’s barrier, protecting against water loss and environmental damage. Surface hydration is typically achieved with topical products that contain humectants (e.g. hyaluronic acid and Glycerin) to attract water, and occlusives to seal it in. While this helps smooth and soften the skin, the effects are often temporary and do not address hydration in the deeper layers. Incorporating humectants such as hyaluronic acid and Glycerin into skincare routines can enhance hydration by attracting and retaining moisture in the skin.
Deep skin hydration, on the other hand, targets the underlying layers of the skin, such as the dermis and epidermis, where long-term hydration is needed to maintain skin structure, elasticity, and overall health. This can be achieved through treatments like injectable hyaluronic acid, which penetrates deeper than topical products. By replenishing moisture at this level, deep hydration helps to improve skin quality, plumpness, and resilience, offering more noticeable and sustained results.
In essence, while surface hydration focuses on immediate relief and barrier protection, deep skin hydration works at a cellular level to restore moisture where it matters most, addressing signs of aging, dryness, and loss of volume for long-lasting, visible improvements.
There has been a surge in ‘skinimalism’ for consumers seeking simplified routines and longer-term solutions. What are some ways to achieve sustained skin hydration?
Patients have a variety of treatments and product options available to boost skin hydration levels, however with injectable Hyaluronic Acid treatments, we’re able to deliver hydration deep into the dermis, with optimal results after just one treatment.
By working on the deeper hydration, there is less need for complex steps in your daily skincare routine.
What is SkinVive® by Juvéderm®?
SkinVive by JUVÉDERM is a unique hyaluronic acid (HA) injectable designed to improve skin quality and hydration. Unlike traditional dermal fillers, SkinVive delivers microdroplets of modified HA into the intradermal layers of the skin. This smaller molecular structure enhances its ability to retain moisture, resulting in deeper and longer-lasting hydration where it matters most.
How does it work to improve skin quality and what can patients expect from the treatment?
When injected as microdroplets into the dermis, Hyaluronic Acid works to attract and bind water molecules, enhancing skin hydration from within. This increased moisture leads to improved skin smoothness, elasticity, and skin quality. SkinVive also boosts Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), a protein responsible for transporting water between skin cells, and helps retain Glycerol, further enhancing skin hydration.
How long do the effects of SkinVive® by Juvéderm® typically last, and are there any maintenance treatments required to sustain results?
Just one treatment session of SkinVive delivers a noticeable boost in hydration, smoothness, and elasticity, with clinically proven results lasting up to 9 months. I recommend my patients get this treatment annually to maintain results.
Can SkinVive® by Juvéderm® be administered at the same time as other aesthetic treatments?
SkinVive can be used in conjunction with collagen induction therapy treatments, which work together to stimulate natural collagen and elastin stores, improving skin quality and appearance. It’s also possible to combine SkinVive with other dermal fillers, though it’s best to discuss your options with a qualified Cosmetic Doctor or Cosmetic Nurse.
For someone considering advanced hydration treatments like SkinVive® by Juvéderm®, what should they look for in a healthcare professional or clinic?
Look for a qualified Health Care Practitioner with the relevant training and experience to perform the treatment safely.
Scott, in your expert opinion and appreciate one size does not fit all, but what are your tips to maintain healthy skin?
In my opinion, maintaining healthy skin starts with a balanced diet, staying well hydrated, and prioritising good sleep. Sun protection is non-negotiable to prevent damage, and while skincare is essential, hydration from within is just as critical. Finally, ensure you’re guided by a skilled healthcare professional who understands your skin and can tailor treatments to your needs.
Dr Scott Allison is an experienced Cosmetic Physician and international trainer in cosmetic injectables. Driven by a passion to empower others, Dr. Allison is committed to finding new and innovative non-invasive treatments to help clients achieve their aesthetic goals, and enhance their own unique perceptions of beauty.
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