Both an Unforgettable Experience and Nature-filled Escape
Nestled in the heart of the Tasman Sea, Lord Howe Island is a hidden gem that delivers an extraordinary escape to some of the world’s most picturesque landscapes.
This UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its pristine beauty and rich biodiversity, offers something special whether you’re looking for adventure or just wanting to relax. One of the island’s most celebrated activities is completing all of the Seven Peaks walks. And so, with walking shoes in hand I head across to Lord Howe Island on what I can only describe as one of the best travel experiences I’ve ever had.
The Location: Lord Howe Island
If you’ve never been to Lord Howe Island, you must. This little crescent-shaped paradise is 600 kilometres east of the Australian mainland, and is part of New South Wales. For its small size, just 11 kilometres long and 2.8 kilometres wide, Lord Howe is jammed packed with eye-dazzling biodiversity. The crystal-clear waters and vibrant coral reefs make it a snorkeler’s mecca. The pristine sandy beaches are a playground for swimming, kayaking, SUPing and fishing. Then there is the island itself, a series of peaks (seven) and troughs teasing you to come and get acquainted – from gentle Mount Eliza to the only-if-you’re-game Mount Gower. More on this shortly.
The township is quaint, a smattering of colonial buildings and a hive of activity. There’s a selection of cafes serving great coffee and homemade treats, Pandanus boutique, a wine bar, a brewery, a bowling club, a number of great restaurants and Thompson’s store that supplies just about anything. There’s a golf course, Museum and a number of stunning beaches and island spots for picnics or simply soaking up nature.
One of the other wonderful things about the island is the lack of mobile reception and only WIFI in certain spots. It’s a great opportunity to take a digital detox and immerse yourself in good old fashioned slower-paced life!
Pinetrees Lodge: Your Home Away From Home
I’m doing the Great Walks of Australia Seven Peaks Walk. It is wonderfully organised with accommodation, meals and a terrific guide all included. Groups are small and intimate, so you get well acquainted and form great friendships. I was lucky to be in a group of wonderful people, who added a lot of laughter and additional memories to the trip. One lady in our group, Lin* (from Singapore) in her late 30’s had been diagnosed with a rare muscular degenerative disease. Knowing her years were numbered for what she could do physically she had given up her career as an in-demand Lawyer, to start ticking off her bucket list. This walk was at the top of her list!
A great reminder to not put off until tomorrow what you can do today.
Soon after I arrive, I check into Pinetrees Lodge, one of the island’s oldest and most iconic accommodations. It is in a great location in the middle of the island, with mountain views to the left and right and the ocean directly in front. The rooms are spacious with each having a little outdoor area to sit and soak in the view. There’s a spa, great bar area complete with pool table, fireplace and library. As well as a tennis court and all the equipment for beach activities of choice. There’s yoga on the Beach House deck in the morning which converts to a spot for sunset drinks in the evening. The food is an absolute highlight, with breakfast, morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner included in your stay. Thankfully we are walking each day, as the food is both delicious and readily flowing.
Back to the walks. We have all checked in and we meet by the fireplace in the living room. Our fearless leader, Chris, holds court explaining how the week will unfold. He also explains the plan for each day is often weather driven, so he decides which walk we’ll be doing in the morning on the day and lets us know at breakfast.
Chris sets a relaxed, light-hearted tone, for which I am grateful, especially since I’m travelling alone and feeling a little trepidatious. We all introduce ourselves and explain why we have chosen to do this walk. We hear Lin’s story, as well as those of newly retired couples, milestone birthdays, and keen walkers who love walking holidays. Even as we make our first introductions, there is a warmth and connection – and a sugar cane farmer who brings a dry sense of fun from the moment we meet.
And so this is the group. We spend a lot of time together walking, talking, sharing meals and stories over the course of the next week.
The Seven Peaks Walk: An Epic Journey
Less of the talking, now for the walking. Our daily ritual is we all meet for breakfast at a respectable 7.30am. Fresh fruit, juices, smoothies and barista coffee. You can then order from an a-la-carte menu that changes daily. Did I mention how fantastic the food is? After breakfast we assemble by the island map where Chris explains the walk we are doing that day. As the week progresses, each morning someone in the group has to do a rerun of yesterday’s walk – which is where the sugar-cane farmer added sugar (and spice) to the recap!
Once we had the morning debrief, we’d go to the kitchen and grab our lunch (which we chose from a selection of options the night before) and water. There’s always a yummy homemade slice for energy, fresh fruit and then choose between a panini or filling salad. Pack-ready off we would go.
The pace was as you like it, and whether you were fast or slow, there were plenty of stops to drink water and catch up. Fortunately, we were a relatively fit group, of similar walking pace so waiting for stragglers to catch up wasn’t a problem. Lunch was always on the track, surprised by how much of an appetite worked up given the big breakfast.
If we stopped near a beach or bay to eat lunch, Nell, the cold-ocean swimmer, would always take a quick dip. Even though there had been a lot of rain and some of the tracks were muddy (but very safe) the weather could not have been more perfect.
Having Chris guide us, he would explain interesting facts about the flora and fauna, as well fun anecdotes of the history of the island, as well as stories of the local legends.
One of the first things we did on day one – before hitting the track, was hire a bike. We did a quick bike tour around the town with Chris highlighting a few things to do in our free-time. Having the bikes also meant we could get about the island and explore what we didn’t get to see on the walks. The island is ideal for cycling as the roads are smooth and there is not much (NO) traffic.
The benefits of not being locked into a rigid program, walks were determined not just by the weather, but also how everyone was feeling. The beauty of having a small, relatively fit group, we covered a lot of ground in the first two days. Having completed five of the peaks in two days, and with the big peak (Mount Gower) booked for tomorrow, Chris threw the challenge down. If we do one more, but small peak today, we would be his first ever group to do the seven peaks in three days. Well, say no more… we were on the path for the sixth peak.
Not all of the group were doing the Mount Gower walk. This is an optional extra, and before you sign up to do it you must watch a short video of the challenging parts of the walk to ensure you have the physical ability to do it.
On the day before we did Mount Gower, we had conquered Mount Lidgbird. It was a great hike with elements of out-of-the-comfort-zone, but not too far out. There were sections where we had to pull ourselves up by rope, but it was breath-taking spectacular at the top. We would encourage each other when we had to walk on a thin ledge (sugar-cane farmer not great with heights, Lin often in pain and poor John knocked his head) or skip over puddles, or pull ourselves up by rope. There was a real sense of communal accomplishment when we all made it to the top. When Chris said, Mount Gower was tougher again, I wasn’t sure if I was excited or scared!
Mastering Mount Gower
So, there were three of us in the group who got up early with butterflies in our tummy to take on Mount Gower. We had plenty of encouragement from our group who were not doing the walk, and I had a slight wave of envy knowing they were having a sleep in and then off on another adventure created by Chris.
Too late to back out now, the bus pulled up at the base of the mountain and those who had booked the walk nervously got off the bus. There was a slight shower (and a slight hope that the weather would put a stop to the walk), but in the distance two rainbows appeared and as we set off, the clouds parted and we could see our destination. I think I preferred the peak hiding in the midst.
Our fearless leader, Kayla, a Lord Howe local who climbs Mount Gower for fun, was super encouraging, but also didn’t pull any punches. We have an eight hour window to get up and back, otherwise it will be too dark and dangerous. She made it very clear, if anyone started lagging behind, she would have to get them to start making their way down and we’d catch them on our way back. We lost two!
This walk is not for the faint hearted. And as we walk through the various ecosystems, the climb gets steeper and the conversation quieter. And then we hit the final stage – nearly a kilometre of vertical climbing. Not one, but seven sections of rope climbing where you virtually pull yourself up. Praise my commitment to chin-ups, even though I hate doing them, I knew they would come in handy one day. Today was that day.
After the first rope section I was really questioning my decision, thankfully Kayla said the first is the worst. I really think she said that as encouragement, as they all seemed pretty relentless. Counting each one as I completed. Six to go, five to go… last one! Once the rope climbing is done, the final stage is easy in comparison. And then you’re there. At the top. Dripping in sweat, muscles shaking, that deep inhale of pristine air was soul food for my lungs. Oh the view. It’s almost a drone shot of the island.
We stop and enjoy lunch, sun on our face, relief that we made it washes over. Since we are racing the sun, lunch is short and time to descend.
I dread going down hills, but this wasn’t as bad as I had thought. Some abseiling techniques came into play using the ropes to get down. All in all, now that we had conquered the unknown, it was wonderful to walk through the ever changing flora with the relief of making it to the top.
It was eight hours of joy, fear, relief, exhilaration and exhaustion. I loved (nearly) every second of it!
When we returned after our walk, our Seven Peaks crew were there ready to hear the tales. We missed them on the track that day.
More than Walks & Talks
After each day’s walk, we would usually get back to Pinetrees Lodge by 2 or 2.30. A hot shower and afternoon tea were standard. We then had time to pop into town, go to the Spa, read a book, whatever you felt like. Sometimes as a group we’d do an island experience (Gin Tasting, coffee at the Anchorage, a workshop of sorts) other times you might take the opportunity to have your own time. That is the beauty of the Great Walks of Australia walks, it is organised and inclusive, yet you have opportunity to create the escape you want as well.
As they say, all good things must come to an end. I was the first of the group to have to leave. The group all came to send me off. A little farewell at the bay by the airport. A toast to the most magical week in nature, to new found friends and an experience that words won’t do justice. A hug from the sugar-farmer, who his gorgeous wife declares never hugs. The hug a symbol of how special the week of walks was for us all!
Top Tips
Do some upper body strength training, as well as some up and down hill walks, as it would be a shame to not climb Mount Gower. It is a challenge, but worth it. Also note it is a guided walk only. So you must book in to do it, and it is not included in the Great Walks Seven Peaks Walk (it’s an optional extra)
Hire a bike so you can really explore the island, as well as have an easy mode of transport other than your feet!
Watch the waves roll in at Ned’s Beach. While you’re there grab some fish food from the nearby dispenser and enjoy the sight of colorful fish swimming around your feet in the clear, shallow waters.
Do a snorkelim,ng cruise. The Lord Howe Island waters are home to an astounding 500 species of fish and 90 coral species. Dean at the Marine Centra will sort you out.
More Information
The Seven Peaks Walk operates: April & May and September – November
Max group size is 12
This is my third walk with Great Walks of Australia, and they are one of the best walking groups you can get. Not only are the walks and guides great, accommodation, food and sustainability are a large and important part of what makes a … Great!
Visit Great Walks of Australia to learn more
The Seven Peaks
- Mount Eliza
- Duration: Approximately 3 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Highlights: Begin your journey with a climb to Mount Eliza, where you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the northern part of the island and the sparkling ocean beyond. The trail winds through dense forests and offers sightings of endemic bird species and vibrant plant life.
- Intermediate Hill
- Duration: Approximately 4 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Highlights: This peak offers a gentle ascent through lush forests, providing opportunities to spot rare bird species and enjoy the island’s diverse flora. The hike features several scenic rest stops, perfect for photography and quiet reflection.
- Malabar Hill
- Duration: Approximately 3 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Highlights: As you hike up Malabar Hill, you’ll be treated to breathtaking coastal views and the chance to see the iconic Balls Pyramid in the distance. The trail includes cliffside paths and open meadows, offering a variety of landscapes in a short trek.
- Kim’s Lookout
- Duration: Approximately 4 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging
- Highlights: Named after a former island resident, Kim’s Lookout offers one of the best vantage points on the island, with sweeping views of the lagoon and the surrounding islets. The trail includes steep sections and rocky paths, adding to the adventure.
- Mount Lidgbird
- Duration: Approximately 6 hours
- Difficulty: Challenging
- Highlights: The ascent of Mount Lidgbird is a challenging but rewarding experience, with its steep cliffs and dramatic landscapes. The trail includes dense forests, rocky outcrops, and spectacular views from the summit, making it a memorable hike.
- Goat House Cave
- Duration: Approximately 5 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging
- Highlights: This peak provides a fascinating journey through ancient volcanic terrain and lush forests, culminating in the impressive Goat House Cave. The trail features unique rock formations and opportunities to explore the island’s geological history.
- Mount Gower
- Duration: Full day (8-10 hours)
- Difficulty: Very Challenging
- Highlights: The final and most challenging peak, Mount Gower stands at 875 meters. The trek to its summit is a strenuous but exhilarating experience, with unparalleled views and a sense of accomplishment that’s hard to beat. The trail includes rope-assisted climbs, steep ascents, and diverse ecosystems, from cloud forests to coastal plains.
By Kris Abbey
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